Dryer Vent Installation Cost Guide: New Runs and Reroutes
Installing a new dryer vent run costs $200 to $500 in 2026, with reroutes and replacements landing between $140 and $600 depending on length, access, and duct material. Rigid-metal ducting costs more upfront but cleans cheaper and lasts longer than flexible foil. This is the guide for when the vent itself -- not just the lint in it -- is the problem.
Orange County, CA · Updated 2026 · Costs shown as ranges — your quote will vary by contractor and scope
New vent runs: the $200 to $500 band
A new dryer vent run -- duct, exterior cap, and termination -- runs $200 to $500 installed in 2026. That covers a straightforward sidewall run: rigid or semi-rigid duct from the dryer to the exterior, a proper vent cap with damper, sealed joints, and a code-appropriate termination. The job takes a few hours when the path is direct and the walls are open or accessible.
The band widens when the run is not straightforward: long horizontal runs, vertical runs through two stories, and runs fished through finished walls all add labor, plus access cost for second-story or roof exteriors. The duct material itself barely moves the price -- routing it through a finished house is the job.
Rigid-metal vs. foil ducting: the material decision
Rigid-metal duct is the professional standard: smooth interior, lint slides through, brushes clean it easily, and it resists crushing behind the dryer. It costs more in material and takes longer to fit, because every elbow and joint is cut and sealed on site. Over a decade, it cleans cheaper and replaces less often -- the total cost of ownership favors it.
Flexible foil ducting is the budget path: cheap and fast to install, but the reason half the vent problems exist -- corrugated ribs trap lint, it crushes behind the dryer, and it tears under aggressive brushing. A chronically clogged foil vent has a material diagnosis; replacement with rigid metal is the fix.
Reroute adders and when the path changes
A reroute -- changing where the vent exits the house -- starts at the $200-to-$500 new-run band and adds from there. Reroutes happen when the existing path is too long (dryer performance rule of thumb: shorter is better), when the current termination violates clearance rules, or when a remodel moved the laundry room. Each wall or floor penetration adds labor and patching.
Roof terminations add the most: flashing, weather sealing, and working height. A soffit or sidewall termination is cheaper and better for cleaning access -- a sidewall cap is serviceable from a ladder; a roof cap needs roof access every year. If you are rerouting anyway, choose the termination with the cheaper cleaning future, not just the cheaper install.
Replacement vs. another cleaning: the $140 to $600 question
Replacing a dryer vent averages $140 to $600 -- sometimes barely more than a deep cleaning with adders. The math flips when the duct is foil and crushed, when joints have separated inside a wall, or when the run is so long and lint-packed that cleaning buys months rather than a year. Replacement resets the system; cleaning maintains it.
The tell is the inspection camera. A duct that is structurally sound but dirty wants a cleaning. A duct with crushed sections, separated joints, or foil that is tearing wants replacement. Paying for a third cleaning on a failing duct is the expensive path -- the replacement costs once and the cleanings that follow are cheaper on rigid metal.
Dryer vent installation and reroute costs (2026)
| Item | Typical range |
|---|---|
| New vent run, installed | $200 – $500 |
| Dryer vent replacement (average) | $140 – $600 |
| Damaged vent replacement (wide band) | $80 – $1,000 |
| Rigid-metal ducting (material premium) | Higher upfront, lower lifetime |
| Flexible foil ducting (material) | Cheap, crushes and traps lint |
| Reroute (path change) | $200 – $500+ adders |
| Roof termination adder | Access + flashing premium |
| Inspection (borescope) | $30 – $60 |
| Vent booster fan (long runs) | $150 – $400 |
| Lint-alert monitor | $170 – $250 |
DIY vs. hiring a pro
Installing a dryer vent is moderate DIY for a straight sidewall run: cut the duct, seal the joints with foil tape (not screws inside the duct -- they catch lint), mount the exterior cap with a damper, and keep the run as short and straight as possible. Reroutes through finished walls, second-story exteriors, and roof terminations are professional work -- flashing, fire-blocking, and clearance rules are not guesswork. DIY the simple run; hire the penetrations.
What drives the price up or down
- Run length -- duct material is cheap, routing labor is the job
- Termination -- roof costs more than sidewall to install and to clean
- Duct material -- rigid metal costs more now, less over a decade
- Access -- finished walls and second stories add labor
- Reroute scope -- each penetration adds a line
- Replacement need -- structural failure flips cleaning into replacement
How to keep the cost down
- Choose rigid metal -- it cleans cheaper for the life of the vent
- Terminate at a sidewall when possible -- cheaper to install and to clean
- Keep runs short and straight -- every elbow is future lint
- Replace failing foil once instead of cleaning it repeatedly
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to install a dryer vent?
A new vent run costs $200 to $500 installed in 2026, covering duct, exterior cap, sealed joints, and termination. Long runs, second-story exteriors, and roof terminations push toward the top of the band and beyond. The duct material is cheap; routing it through a finished house is what you are paying for.
Is rigid-metal ducting worth the extra cost?
Yes. Rigid metal has a smooth interior that lint slides through, cleans easily with rotary brushes, and resists crushing behind the dryer. Foil ducting is cheaper and faster to install but traps lint in its ribs, crushes easily, and tears under aggressive cleaning. Over a decade, rigid metal costs less all-in.
How much does it cost to reroute a dryer vent?
A reroute starts at the $200-to-$500 new-run band and adds labor for each wall or floor penetration. Roof terminations add flashing and access premiums. If you are rerouting anyway, choose a sidewall termination -- it is cheaper to install and cheaper to clean every year after.
When should a dryer vent be replaced instead of cleaned?
When the inspection camera shows crushed sections, separated joints inside walls, or foil ducting that is tearing. Replacement averages $140 to $600 -- sometimes barely more than a deep cleaning with adders. A sound-but-dirty duct wants cleaning; a structurally failing duct wants replacement.
Can I install a dryer vent myself?
A straight sidewall run is moderate DIY: cut duct, seal joints with foil tape, mount a dampered exterior cap, keep it short and straight. Reroutes through finished walls, second-story exteriors, and roof terminations are professional work -- flashing, fire-blocking, and clearance rules are not guesswork.